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An exceptional 80-stone historic Zuni Pueblo silver and turquoise “Cluster” Bracelet, c. 1920’s-30’s
Every once in a while, if you’re extremely fortunate, you get to see a piece that is so much better and more unique than the norm that it seems like it is simply on another planet or from another universe, or in the particular case of this bracelet, from another “Zuni-Verse”.
We have seen perhaps a few hundred historic and contemporary Zuni “Cluster”-style silver and turquoise bracelets
over the past 40 years, but we have never seen one quite like this. The sheer magnitude of the piece is the first thing that strikes you…it is BIG and then there’s the number of stones and complex stone settings and then there’s the details of the incredibly detailed intricacy of hand construction. Its overall presence and its extreme quality of craftsmanship is breath-taking in its ambition and achievement. The unknown Zuni silversmith who made this was clearly
a master artist, master craftsmen and, most definitely, also a master of patience.
Zuni Pueblo and Navajo Silversmiths at The C.G. Wallace Trading Post
The C. G. Wallace Trading Post’s outstanding roster of Zuni Pueblo and Navajo jewelry makers; silversmiths and stone carvers, included, among others, all of the following at one time or another: John Gordon Leak, Juan de Dios, Horace Iule, Dan Simplicio, Leekya Deyuse, Teddy Weahkee, Leo Poblano, Daisy Hooee, Frank Vacit, Della Casa Appa, Roger Skeet, Sr., Roger Skeet, Jr., Etsitty Tstosie, Austin Wilson and William Goodluck, skilled and distinguished artists all, several of whom could have been responsible for making this bracelet. In the photo above, C.G. Wallace is shown with some of his Native silversmiths at his trading post at Zuni Pueblo, NM, c. 1920's.
Photo source and © Sotheby Parke Bernet
Above center, a very fine, but more conventionally-styled Zuni “Cluster”style bracelet. This example in the collection of the Boston Museum of Fine Arts is more conventionally styled and considerably less complex to create. It’s a simpler, less intricate and less visually dynamic presentation, in our subjective view, emphasizing the many stones more and somewhat less interested in the uniqueness and complexity of the silverwork. The stones in this bracelet are all very tightly grouped together and this bracelet does not have the extended encircling outside border or “corona” of continuous handwrought silver cutouts with set stones all the way around.
Photo source and © Boston Museum of Fine Arts
We can’t help but get the very strong feeling that somehow the renowned historic Zuni Pueblo Indian Trader, Charles Garrett (C.G.) Wallace (1896-1972) has had a strong hand in the conception and creation of this one. With Wallace, it was always let’s make it bigger, let’s make it better, let’s make it bolder and more ambitious than anyone else would and with his extremely talented stable of in-house Pueblo and Navajo silversmiths, some of whom are pictured above with C.G. Wallace, among the very finest in the business, he was able to have it done that way to the complete and constant delight of his well-cultivated, well-heeled, exclusive clientele.
This level of completely over the top complexity, quality, beauty and attention to detail is completely evident throughout this bracelet. The 80 turquoise stones are all of excellent quality and beautifully matched, the 80 finely-serrated silver bezels and their detailed handmade silver settings are perfectly designed and most perfectly wrought as are the three finely twisted silver wire surrounds in the bracelet’s center, the three rows of perfectly applied silver "raindrops" and the extended by almost 1/2" or so encircling outer corona like outside perimeter border
of 26 horseshoe-shaped consecutive silver cutouts each holding its own turquoise stone which is a unique feature which we have never see before on a historic Zuni cluster bracelet where the stones are almost always all grouped close together in one continuous area or cluster as seen below. This extended, perforated border gives this piece a visual lightness and negative space that is extremely distinctive and attractive. A very high degree of unique artistic imagination and technical vision and skill was brought to bear upon this piece and the final result is magnificent and beautifully mind-boggling.
The bracelet measures an eye-popping 3 1/8" in width at its widest center point and it tapers down to about 7/8" in width at the terminal ends. The bracelet’s inner circumference end-to-end is 5 1/8" and the gap between the terminals is 1 7/16" for a total interior circumference of 6 9/16” just slightly over 6 1/2". The bracelet weighs a nicely substantial 88 grams or 3 1/8 ounces, more than many cluster bracelets which are often lighter in weight. Despite its greater weight,
it is marvelously comfortable and stable on the wrist. The bracelet is in remarkably excellent original condition, all the stones are intact as is all the incredibly intricate silverwork. There is some degree of age-appropriate wear in evidence but no real damage and the piece has a beautiful, aged patina.
This bracelet is a master piece made by a master of his or her craft and in our personal opinions made under the
auspices of perhaps the greatest historic Indian trader of them all. A rare and precious prize indeed! And on those
very rare occasions when your're not wearing it as a bracelet, you can always exhibit it as the beauitiful historic
silver and stone sculpture it also is.
Price $2,450